The ghost town of Zaragoza: it was destroyed in the Civil War, but can still be visited

The Civil War is a reminder that calls to mind and the historical wound that affected all of Spanish society, regardless of which side each person belonged to. Living proof of this are the testimonies and the legacy of our precursors, our grandparents, uncles or parents, who open our eyes to the reality of that time.

In the case of Aragon, the autonomous community was one of the main witnesses of this conflict first-hand. Through bloody conflicts such as the Battle of Teruel, the Battle of the Ebro or the Battle of Belchite, part of the legacy of the Civil War was the destruction of some of the old towns in the regions, and the christening of the so-called “ghost towns “.

Belchite is one of the most famous ghost towns in Zaragoza. The town was besieged and destroyed by the bombing of the Republican side and, to this day, its history and memory as one of the towns most destroyed by the Civil War has been preserved. The good news is that the ruins, known as “Las ruinas de Belchite Viejo” can still be visited. So, if you are interested in visiting this ghost town in the province of Zaragoza, we will explain everything you need to know before visiting it.

WHAT HAPPENED IN BELCHITE DURING THE CIVIL WAR

The history of the ghost town of Zaragoza during the Civil War dates back to July 18, 1936. General Miguel de Cabanellas ordered the arrest of mayors and various Popular Front militants, and a day later declared a state of war. The Falangist militias began to repress the mayors and politicians of the different towns in Aragon, and this gave rise to the series of armed conflicts known as the Aragon Front.

One of the conflicts of the Aragon Front would be the battle of Belchite, considered one of the most notable offensives in the War by the Republican army. The battle of Belchite was a siege of the now destroyed town, which lasted a total of two weeks. During those days, the bombings by the Republicans were intense and periodic until they managed to penetrate the town.

At that time, a resistance of 3,000 Falangist soldiers faced the more than 20,000 Republican invaders. A bloody battle took place that was eventually won by the Republican side. The town was damaged and it is estimated that around 6,000 people lost their lives. In turn, Belchite was completely abandoned due to the effects of the Civil War.

Belchite’s legacy after the Civil War

After the battle, most of the town’s infrastructure was uninhabitable and the refugees had to be relocated to temporary accommodation as quickly as possible. Despite Franco’s final victory, he refused to rebuild Belchite during his government, in order to leave evidence of the effects and after-effects of the ruthless “red terror”.

Thus, a new Belchite was built in 1954, while Belchite Viejo deteriorated over time. However, the Pueblo Viejo de Belchite Foundation has been responsible for preserving the historical memory of the place and of those who lived through the events of this town destroyed by the Civil War.

WHAT TO SEE IN BELCHITE

How to visit Belchite Viejo: price and visiting hours

Thanks to the Fundación Pueblo Viejo de Belchite, whose members are mostly descendants of the inhabitants of the original town, it is now possible to visit various areas of Belchite Viejo to learn about its entire history. This is possible thanks to a tour of approximately an hour and a half, which takes you through the streets and ancient ruins of what was once this ghost town in Zaragoza.

The tour takes you to visit great cultural heritage sites such as the Church of San Martín de Tours (declared a Site of Cultural Interest), the Clock Tower of the Old Church of San Juan, the Arch of the Villa dedicated to the Virgen de los Remedios, the ruins of the Convent of San Rafael or the ruins of the Convent of San Agustín.

This tour costs eight euros for people over 14 years old (for those under 14, admission is free). The visit also has a reduced price for groups of more than 20 people, who will only have to pay four euros per person.

The route is available from 12:00 to 16:00 from Monday to Friday and from 10:00 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 18:00 on Saturdays and Sundays.

Present-day Belchite

However, Belchite also has more to offer. If, in addition to the historical legacy of Belchite Viejo, you also want to see the avant-garde treasures of the current town, you can do so. These are some of the gems hidden in Belchite Nuevo:

The refugee camp “Russia”

Located on the A-222 road, this refugee camp was built to accommodate the families of the town with a republican ideology, since most of the houses in the town had become uninhabitable.

The camp was named “Russia” because Russia hosted several leftist Spanish families during the war.

In this project, a total of 15 barracks were built and they housed both the exiles from the town and some of the families of the workers and prisoners who were working on the construction.

The ethnological museum

If you want to know more about the culture and functioning of the Belchite agricultural society of years ago, you cannot leave the town without visiting the ethnological museum.

The museum has three rooms dedicated to different activities that the municipality carried out well into the 20th century. These included harvesting, threshing and plant fibres. The complex also has another room where the town’s giants and big heads are on display.

The museum is open on weekends, and can be visited on Saturdays from 10:00 to 13:00 and from 17:00 to 20:00; and on Sundays from 10:00 to 14:00. Prices and rates must be checked at the Belchite Tourist Office, either with a visit in person, by email or by calling their phone. Both the email and the phone number are available on the Belchite municipality website.

Sanctuary of Our Lady of Pueyo

Located four kilometres from the town, on the A-220 road, this baroque sanctuary stands on the site of the ancient Roman settlement of Belia.

This temple is made of brick and has a baroque chapel, the remains of a Renaissance cloister and a primitive Mudejar tower. A cocktail that fuses different artistic currents to give birth to one of the most important sanctuaries in Aragon.

Despite its majesty and elegance, the sanctuary can only be visited on Sundays, from 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., so if you want to visit this monument, you’d better make sure you have a free Sunday to do so.

In this way, Belchite is a beautiful and terrifying reminder of one of the biggest scars in the history of Spain. A ghost town that has been preserved as a symbol of the ravages of war, which does not forget but does not stagnate and combines past, present and future between its two Belchites. From here, we invite you to visit this municipality, to understand the echoes of a past that, for the good of some and the bad of others, will not disappear.

HOW TO GET TO BELCHITE

From Zaragoza capital, there are two ways to get to Belchite:

– The first option is by car or taxi, which takes about 48 minutes on the A-222.

– The second option is via a bus, which runs from Avenida Cesáreo Alierta, 36, at a modest price of between four and eight euros, with prior reservation required.