Churches in Zaragoza: the 6 most spectacular in the Old Town

Walking and getting lost in the streets of Zaragoza ‘s Old Town is one of the heritage wonders hidden in the Aragonese capital. Between the neighborhoods of El Gancho and La Magdalena, between Plaza de San Miguel and Calle del Coso, there are several hidden gems waiting to be discovered by visitors.

From legendary venues such as Rock & Blues or La Lata de Bombillas, to the large conglomeration of bars and restaurants offered by the legendary Tubo neighbourhood, Zaragoza is proud of its Old Town. An area that, over time, has taken root and won the hearts of all generations of Zaragozans.

But there is another great element to highlight among the streets of the second largest historic centre in Spain, and that is its churches. Zaragoza has six churches in total located in this area, and they are living proof of the architectural and artistic potential that, for centuries, the Aragonese capital has shown both to the country and to its visitors from abroad (which are not few).

Do you want to know the spectacular identity, location and legacy of these six churches in Zaragoza? Then keep reading, because we are going to break them down one by one.

THE SIX ECCLESIASTICAL JEWELS OF THE OLD TOWN OF ZARAGOZA

St. Paul’s Church

Located in the heart of the El Gancho neighbourhood (Calle de San Pablo, 42), the church of San Pablo had as its predecessor a hermitage dedicated to San Blas around the year 1118, built after Alfonso I the Battler reconquered Zaragoza from the Arabs. It is believed that it was the crusaders, allies at that time of Alfonso I’s troops, who introduced and spread the devotion to the saint.

For this reason, the citizens were quick to erect the hermitage as proof of their faith. Over the centuries, and under the direction of monarchs such as James I the Conqueror or figures of the clergy such as the bishop of Zaragoza in 1259, Don Arnaldo de Peralta, the hermitage came to be under the ownership of San Pablo. However, the demographic increase in the area forced the hermitage to be demolished and a parish church to be established in its place.

In this way, in the 13th century, this Zaragozan church was born in a Gothic-Mudejar style, and in the 18th century, it was composed of the architectural complex that it is today. In these five centuries of development, works such as its gilded wooden main altarpiece by Damián Forment or the renovation of the north side doorway stand out. Projects that, in their totality, allowed the church of San Pablo to be declared a National Monument in 1931 and, later, a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2001 as one of the most relevant milestones of Aragonese Mudejar.

• Opening hours : 9.30am to 1pm on Mondays, Wednesdays and Sundays; 10am to 12.30pm on Tuesdays; and 10am to 12.30pm and 6pm to 7.30pm on Thursdays to Saturdays.

Church of the Portillo

The history of the Church of El Portillo, located in the square of the same name, is deeply linked to the Church of San Pablo. It is said that, shortly after the reconquest of Zaragoza by Alfonso I (an event for which the church of San Pablo was built), the Muslims tried to recover the city by launching an offensive and opening a breach in one of its walls, leaving a “portillo” through which they could enter.

Rumours say that the Virgin appeared on the wall and repelled the attack of the Muslims. Therefore, in response to this event, the soldiers of Alfonso I built a hermitage in her honour. It was in the middle of the 14th century when the hermitage was renovated to become a temple and, already in the 15th century, records show that this “church” in Zaragoza venerated the Virgin of Portillo.

However, the following centuries would bring about the ruin and destruction of the temple, through events such as the French invasion of Spain. However, the Portillo temple was also the scene of one of the most heroic chapters in Zaragoza, since right next to its door, Agustina de Aragón used one of the defenders’ cannons to protect the people of Zaragoza from Napoleon’s troops. Finally, in 1902, with the reorganization of the Diocese of Zaragoza, the temple (rebuilt in the 19th century) became the parish church of our present day, of venerable antiquity and declared a National Monument.

• Opening hours (open for masses): 10:00 and 19:30 from Monday to Saturday; 09:00, 11:00, 12:00 and 19:30 on Sundays and holidays; and 09:00, 12:00 and 19:30 on Sundays and holidays during summer time. In July and August there is no mass at 10:00.

Church of Santiago El Mayor

This church in Zaragoza capital is the only thing that has been preserved from the convent of San Ildefonso, which was abandoned during the Mendizábal Confiscation. After its foundation in 1625, and later developed in 1661 thanks to architects such as Felipe de Busgnac y Borbón, a building with an enormous façade flanked by two towers and crowned by a masterful dome dating from 1860 was eventually consolidated (the original was destroyed by lightning).

The interior is in Italian Baroque style , with a single nave and transept, with chapels between the buttresses. Among its plasterwork, Baroque and Mudejar elements stand out, such as stars, bows and geometric designs. The finishing touch is provided by the artistic treasures preserved in this Zaragoza church, above which the tomb of Cardinal Jerónimo Xavierre stands out.

Another interesting feature of this church is the arch of its portico, known as the Arch of San Ildefonso. This is one of only two architectural arches in Zaragoza that still exist today, despite having suffered the effects of the confiscation of church property in 1835. So if you are looking to delve into the architectural and cultural history of this church, do not hesitate to visit and pay attention to both the building (Avenida de César Augusto, 21) and the Arch of San Ildefonso.

• Opening hours : 10:00 to 13:00 and 18:30 to 20:15 Monday to Friday; 10:00 to 13:30 and 18:30 to 20:30 on Saturdays; and 10:00 to 13:30 and 19:30 to 20:30 on Sundays.

Church of San Felipe

Located in Plaza San Felipe, the church of San Felipe and Santiago el Menor is established as one of the most charming churches in the Old Town of Zaragoza. It is located near the Torreón Fortea and the Palacio de Argillo, which houses the Pablo Gargallo Museum.

As soon as you arrive at the square, the exterior of this church in Zaragoza welcomes visitors with its baroque doorway. In fact, this door formerly belonged to the Basilica del Pilar, which was later dismantled and moved to its current location. Its interior features baroque altarpieces, which preside over its chapels, the carvings of the apostles that guard the aisle of the central nave or the main altarpiece.

According to historical records, this church once belonged to the Marquises of Villaverde, who were also the owners of the Argillo Palace. It was built during the 17th and 18th centuries and it is said that the main purpose of this temple was to act as a direct access to the Marquises’ palace. Although it no longer has this curious function, the majesty of the Church of San Felipe continues to captivate both tourists and Zaragozans.

• Hours ( open during mass ): 10:30 a.m. Monday to Saturday; and 12:00 p.m. on Sundays.

Church of San Cayetano

We are approaching the end of this list of churches in Zaragoza capital with the church of Santa Isabel de Portugal, also known as San Cayetano and located in the Plaza del Justicia. It is located very close to the church of San Felipe and the Pablo Gargallo museum, and stands out for its impressive baroque façade made of alabaster ; considered one of the most beautiful in Zaragoza.

This church in Zaragoza was built at the end of the 17th century in honour of the Infanta of Aragon, Saint Isabel of Portugal, and this tribute can be seen in the interior symbolism of the church. For example, emblems of the coat of arms of Aragon can be found in different locations throughout the building. In addition, the icing on the cake is its baroque altarpiece from the end of the 18th century, complemented by the organ and crowned by its domes, which are inspired by those belonging to the Basilica del Pilar.

However, this church has a peculiarity, and that is that it does not have a fixed opening time. It only opens its doors when there is an exhibition, a wedding or a baptism, or when its great moment of glory occurs during Holy Week, since many of the processions in Zaragoza begin and end in this temple. If you are “lucky” enough to see San Cayetano open, do not just stay there contemplating its majestic façade, go inside and be amazed by its interior.

• Schedule : no fixed schedule

Church of Saint John of the Panetes

We conclude this list with the Zaragoza church of San Juan de los Panetes, located next to the Roman Walls and the Torreón de la Zuda, on Avenida de César Augusto. The great presence of the Basilica del Pilar guards this church with a baroque façade, which leaves all its visitors speechless thanks to its inclined octagonal tower.

However, the touristic motive of this church is contrary to the typical expectations of a building of this type. Its interior does not contain any ecclesiastical jewels. This is because the church suffered two fires that destroyed its entire interior, the only surviving element being the 16th century Calvary.

The temple that still exists today was built in the 18th century. However, neither the fires nor the “disappearance” of its original structure have prevented the church from maintaining its charms from the order of Saint John of Jerusalem, founders of the temple between the 12th and 13th centuries. So if you are looking to immerse yourself in a monument that symbolizes resilience against adversity, do not hesitate to visit this church in Zaragoza capital.

• Hours ( open for masses ): Sundays at 11:00 a.m.

THE PILLAR AND THE SEO

Although they are not churches, we could not end this article without making an honorable mention of two of the most important and representative monuments in the history of Zaragoza, also located in the Old Town: the Basilica of Pilar and the Cathedral of La Seo.

On the one hand, the basilica is a large temple measuring 130 metres long, 76 metres wide and 18 metres high up to the main cornice, located in the square of the same name. The building has four towers, with the peculiarity that none of them were built at the same time. The oldest, the Torre de Santiago, dates back to 1715, the tower of Nuestra Señora del Pilar was started in 1903 and finished in 1907 and the last two towers, San Francisco de Borja and Santa Leonor, were both built in 1949. One of them was finished in 1959 and the other in 1961.

Although its exterior is already astonishing and would give much to talk about, its interior should not be overlooked either. Its Holy Chapel, the frescoes of its domes, the two frescoes by Francisco de Goya or the Main Altarpiece are just some of the elements that make the Pilar a true meeting place and pilgrimage for the Aragonese, the Spanish and tourists from all over the world.

On the other hand, we have the Seo Cathedral, located in the Plaza de la Seo and whose construction began in the 12th century, integrating a Romanesque style into the previous Great Mosque that was in the old Saraqusta. The building consists of five naves and six sections covered with ribbed vaults. Its combination of materials such as marble, bronze, polychrome wood or plaster, give it a multidisciplinary mantle (Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque) that does not exempt any visitor from being amazed.

Inside you can find its beautiful chapels, among which the Epistle and Gospel chapels stand out, as well as the presbytery and the adjoining chapels. Also not to be missed are the choir and the retrochoir with representations of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, which are closed by a gilded bronze grille made by the sculptor Juan Ramírez. An architectural conglomeration that amazes everyone equally.

• Opening hours of the Pilar ( main altar area ): 07:30 to 13:30 and 16:30 to 20:15 from Monday to Friday; from 07:30 to 11:45 and 16:30 to 20:30 on Saturdays and from 07:30 to 13:30 and 16:30 to 21:30 on Sundays and religious holidays.

• Opening hours of Pilar ( Santa Capilla area ): from 08:00 to 20:30 from Monday to Sunday

• La Seo opening hours : 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; 10:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. on Saturdays; and 10:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. and 2:00 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. on Sundays.

Through its churches, Zaragoza’s Old Town is a mosaic of history, art and spirituality, where each church tells a unique story that transcends the centuries. From the Mudejar majesty of San Pablo to the resilience of San Juan de los Panetes, these architectural gems invite us to connect with the roots of a city that never ceases to amaze. 
Let yourself be enveloped by the magic of Zaragoza’s churches and discover the essence of an unforgettable city!